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When compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.