Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
